BEAUTY and FREEDOM

Jiayi Zhou

Jiayi explored the cultural and political significance of hair in Chinese society through a historical and contemporary perspective, taking a trip through the evolution of Chinese women’s hair styles and attitudes towards body hair in particular.  The project emerged from the shocking news that a young Chinese girl had taken her own life because of online attacks on a photo she shared of herself with dyed pink hair. 

The project aimed to challenge norms and expectations of beauty standards reinforced by imagery in historical and contemporary literature.  Using hair as a metaphor, Jiayi explored how these norms and expectations play out in pressure on young women to conform and feel unable to express their individuality. In China, Jiayi noted that there are inherent expectations that “men have short hair and women have long hair (Bei, W. 2016)” and how the male gaze in patriarchal society reflects women’s hairstyles that respond to men’s fantasies. In China less hair on a woman's body (ideally no hair at all) and as much hair on her head as possible is an expectation!

An accomplished accessories designer, Jiayi used leather and fake hair printed with challenging messages to create artefacts which explored attitudes towards hairstyles and body hair, and questioned whether in Chinese society women really have control over their bodies. The colour palette for designs and artefacts revolved around pink in response to the initial story of the girl that committed suicide. 

Surveys on attitudes were conducted with 40 young women aged between 20-30 years old and a focus group made up of 3 women and 3 men. Many interesting stories emerged from the research which informed Jiayi’s final pieces. Her conclusions was that in Chinese society, those in power, generally men, have a direct impact on women's aesthetic freedom and right to control their own bodies, so that conformity and integration is the safest option. The strict education system also means many women don’t have the courage to challenge and find their own identity. Some women were subjected to body hair shaming when they were growing up and many girls are used to it and accept this, whilst others choose to resist bravely.

There was some positivity in the survey results, in that the consciousness of some young women interviewed showed they rejected these expectations, and they no longer regard body hair as shameful and taboo. Jiayi reflects these contradictions in her designs creating work that portrays body hair as natural, pretty and interesting.

Instagram: @jiay111_z

All IMAGES:  Jiayi Zhou